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Selecting a tripod
The right tripod is an essential accessory.
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A solid tripod, employed here as a make-shift prop in a fashion shoot, is an essential accessory for most serious photographers.
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Your first tripod should be an all-purpose, quality-made unit. Don't be scrimpy and go for the el-cheapo tripod that is poorly-built and won't stand up over time.
The two fundamentally-important considerations in selecting a tripod are stability, or rigidity, and weight.
1. Providing stability for your camera is a tripod's most-important purpose. This is the number one aspect to consider when comparing various models. If it is not rock solid, then you don't want it. A tripod should prevent, not contribute to, camera shake.
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2. A tripod's weight is the next consideration, and an important one. If it stayed in one place all the time, the ideal tripod would be so heavy, you couldn't move it. You may be tempted to buy a big, heavy model because of its tremendous stability, but you will probably find that you will use it rarely because it is too much hassle to lug around and set up. Your first tripod does not need to steady your camera in a tornado, so don't get one that will. On the other hand, tripods advertised as being light and highly portable may also be flimsy and less stable than needed. Look at several models, and select the one that provides a good compromise between what you can comfortably carry and its stability. A good test to perform is to attach a camera with the longest and heaviest lens you will use, and check for movement. A simple design is generally more rigid than one that has complex fittings.
3. Height is another factor in selecting your new tripod. You should select a tripod that can be extended at least to eye-level and that remains stable at that height.
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Weight is only of the features to take into account when purchasing a tripod.
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Increased stability, especially outdoors, can be achieved by adding weight to the center column - in this case, supplied by a second camera with a heavy, long lens.
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4. Look at the feet in the models that interest you. Some tripods have spiked feet, and others have flat or curved rubber bottoms, while others have the ability to select either spikes or rubber feet. All other considerations being equal, the versatility of the model that lets you use either spiked or rubber-based feet would be your choice. If you can't find one and have to choose between spiked or rubber, however, the latter is better for general use. Spiked feet are meant for outdoors use.
5. A tripod's legs generally telescope (collapse in on themselves) for storage or to reduce its height. When extended, the legs should not flex under pressure. Test the leg locks to be sure they are robust, lock tightly and won't slip. Metal locks will probably outlast plastic ones. Quick-release clips allow fast adjustment of the legs. Some tripods have extra leg bracing to increase stability and keep them equally spread apart.
6. The center column in some tripods is reversible, allowing you to mount your camera upside down for low-level shooting. Some tripods are fitted with a handle and ratchet system that allows you to wind the center column up or down. Others have a simple lock for the column. The column tends to be the most unstable component of a tripod, and should only be used when the legs can be extended no more. Many photographers feel that having a long center column is self-defeating. Extending it to its full height changes the tripod into a monopod that is mounted on three legs, and your camera won't be truly steady. They recommend purchasing a tripod wiith a very short center column for maximum stability.
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7. Particular attention must be paid to the head. Pan-and-tilt heads are most common, allowing you to adjust the camera's position in three ways: forward and back, vertically and horizontally 360 degrees. Small adjustments can be made in one direction without affecting the others. Other tripods use a ball-and-socket head. When the ball's locking mechanism is loosened, the head can be freely and quickly moved to most any angle, although fine alterations are more difficult than with a pan-and-tilt head. Some heads have a quick-release platform that allows removal and reattachment with the platform screwed into the baseplate of the camera.
8. A built-in spirit level can be a handy device. It lets you know when the tripod is level with the horizon. Photographers who use SLR cameras, having a built-in level is not essential, since you can use the viewframe to check whether your picture will be level with the horizon. The same is true of viewfinder cameras, except when using long lenses, when minor variations may be harder to see. The viewscreens in many digital cameras can be used to check whether the camera is more or less level without recourse to a spirit level, although some scenes can fool your eye. A level is handy when precision is required or when illumination levels are too low to properly see a scene through the viewframe.
9. Finally, size is a consideration that is important. The tripod should fit into a suitcase or be of a size that it can be carried between the handle straps of your camera bag.
TESTING A TRIPOD
A good way to test a tripod's stability is to fully extend its legs and place both of your hands on top of it. Press down and then see if you can move the tripod from side to side or in a circular manner. If it wobbles or sways, it fails the test, because it won't be stable enough to prevent all camera movement.
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A tripod head equipped with a spirit level helps to ensure that the camera is level with the horizon.
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