Costumes

There are four kinds of costumes addressed in this section:
(1) Fun costumes - costumes people wear for fun (like on Hallowe’en or to a gala ball);
(2) Uniforms;
(3) Ethnic costumes - the distinctive clothing that signifies a person’s nationality or cultural heritage, and
(4) Theatrical costumes.

Many of the techniques used in photographing people in costume apply to all four types, however you will find tips and pointers pertaining to each type in separate sections devoted just to them.

LENS CHOICE

Since the emphasis in costume photography is still on the subject’s face, even when the subject is wearing a mask as part of the costume, use a portrait lens or set your zoom lens in the 80 to 120 mm range. You will avoid the distortion that can be imparted by a wide-angle lens, particularly in close-ups. A normal lens (generally 50 to 55 mm) may be suitable for full-length shots when the camera is turned and held in the vertical-framing position, and is also suitable horizontally for group shots.

Focus on the subject's eyes and be sure you have sufficient depth-of-field, particularly when shooting a close-up with a long lens, so that the entire costume is in focus.

FILM FOR COSTUMES

Since color often plays a big part in a costume’s design and its visual impact, most shots of all types of costume will be taken using color film (unless, of course, you are shooting with a digital camera), generally one that provides rich tones. If it is more important, though, to emphasize the subject’s face and skin tones than it is to have the costume stand out, you might select a film used for weddings and portraiture that de-emphasizes bright colors. Sometimes, the mood of a shot will dictate film choice. Shooting in black and white can lend credibility to older-style costumes, and having prints made in sepia tones will add further to the period feel of the image. If the subject adopts a pose and expression that convey strong feelings appropriate to the character of the costume, black and white photography can contribute to the subject’s emotion and mood.

If you are shooting outside on a bright day, good quality film with a speed of ISO 100, or an equivalent sensitivity setting in your digital camera, should be fine. Indoors, with lower light levels, you will likely need a faster ISO setting. You can sometimes predetermine the film speed you will need by taking exposure readings in advance in the same light you plan to shoot in, using different film speed settings for your light meter. ISO 400 - film speed or digital sensitivity setting - is a good starting point when lighting levels are expected to be low.

LIGHTING & EXPOSURE

If it is very sunny and you are shooting outside, you have choices to make about lighting. To reduce harsh shadows and squinty eyes that can ruin people pictures, place your subject in bright shade. If the background is sunlit, be sure to take your meter reading up close to the subject, then step back to take your picture at the indicated exposure settings. No shade available? Use a diffuser between the sun and your subject to create softer lighting. They are available commercially from photo suppliers or you can use a white bed sheet held by helpers or tacked up. Don’t use colored cloth, since it will create a color cast on your subject. Haven't warned you, though, a pale yellow or pinkish bedsheet as a diffuser can result in warmer skin tones for a pale-skinned subject.

You can also have your costumed subject positioned so that the sun is behind them and off to one side, creating a pleasant rim-lighting effect that can be very attractive, and adds a sheen to hair. Exposure is critical here, and you will want to be sure that your camera is not fooled by the bright light. Take your meter reading from close up to the subject. With backlit subjects, fill flash can be very effective. Another technique that will improve a backlit subject is the use of a reflector. Have a helper hold and direct the reflected light. White card or large pieces of flat styrofoam make good reflectors, and many commercially-available reflectors will provide a backlit subject with good frontal lighting. A dramatic, professional look can be achieved by combining partial back-lighting, with the sun at the rear and off to the side, fill flash and a reflector held behind your subject and oriented to provide rim or side-lighting on the shadow side. This can be especially nice if the costume contains diaphanous material, like many wedding dresses.

Using flash indoors, be watchful that your subjects do not cast shadows on the wall or backdrop. Keeping the backdrop several feet away and using angled off-camera flash or bounce flash can eliminate this problem.

BACKGROUND AND SETTING

The setting can be very important in costume photography. If there is a background available that compliments the costume, that is ideal. A cowboy will look natural in a stable or posing by a split rail fence, but appears incongruous in a modern living room.

When there is no suitable setting, keep the background simple and neutral. This is often easier to achieve outdoors where a natural, wooded backdrop can be suitable for many different types of costume. A low shooting angle where the sky provides the backdrop for a close-up of your subject can be effective.

Indoors or outdoors, one solution can be to tack up or drape a large piece of cloth - a bed sheet or black velvet fabric, for instance - to serve as a neutral backdrop. Avoid patterned material that could be distracting or conflict with the material from which the costume was made.

You can often get around background and setting problems by filling the frame with your subject in a close-up shot. Why show half the living room when your subject occupies less than 10% of the frame? Move in. Fill the frame with your costumed subject, and get a pleasing picture.

The background can often be thrown out of focus by using a wide aperture. Check your depth-of-field when using this technique and you will be able to determine what will or won’t be in focus.

You may be photographing costumed actors in a theater. Employ the stage setting and painted backdrops used in the production to give a sense of reality. Be careful about shadows from flash, though, especially if the backdrop is painted to look three-dimensional. The theatrical backdrop may not work as a background for one reason or another, but don't dismay. Theaters generally have very dark and very brightly-lit areas since they are shielded entirely from daylight, and a dark, shadowed background may be just the ticket for top-quality pictures of costumed performers.